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Vermont Weathervane

CELEBRATE THE SEASON:
September Days
by Rowland E. Robinson

A Year of Septembers
by W.D. Wetherall

Dairy Farmers of the Year
by Gus How Johnson

Johnny Appleseed
by Frank B. McAllister

A Bushel of Apple Recipes

GARDENING:
At Least a 40-Watt Bulb: Planting Spring Bulbs

INTO THE OUTDOORS:
Nature's Cycles

VERMONT WEATHERVANE BOOK NEWS:
Cider
Making, Using and Enjoying Sweet and Hard Cider
Small House Design
Award-Winning, Architect-designed homes of 1,250 square feet or less.

GET OUT AND ABOUT:
Vermont Country Calendar
Statewide Calendar of Events

EXPLORE OUR OTHER SEASONS:
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Photo by William Casey

A Year of Septembers
by W.D. Wetherell
The best day of the year to go fishing is the first day of school. Leaving early, you drive past children waiting by the road for the bus--newly clothed, sneakers white, immaculate; skin scrubbed as shiny as pot bottoms, hair glossy as palominos', obediently banged, ponytailed, shagged, whatevered; book bags slack, empty, like deflated balloons; pencils stiletto sharpened, pens bursting blue; voices raised, biceps pinched, races run, footballs tossed; children, that is, with their lightly worn burden of crabby teacher, bossy coach, unrepentant bully, unrequited love, pickled beets, algebra, condemned to spend this fairest of days locked indoors, regretting summer, hatching plots, humming revolutionary song ("Mine eyes have seen the glory of the burning of the school"), wishing more than anything to be outside. You pass all these, and you head on toward the river to play with trout, unscrubbed, unshaven, nonimmaculate but free.

* * * * *

In the valleys that run west from the Connecticut, there is a direct correlation between wealth and no trespassing signs. In the more affluent valleys they are everywhere, so thick it makes it seem as if the owners of the land are trying to lock the rivers away in boxes, each slat of which is another sign: VIOLATORS WILL BE PROSECUTED TO THE FULL EXTENT OF THE LAW!

Travel up to the poorer valleys that begin north of the White River and you will see few such signs. The Vermonters who live there are still too close to the old days to make much sense out of the kind of miserliness that puts limits on the land's enjoyment. On the river, I can think of only one no trespassing sign, but it's in a vital spot, and it involved me in three seconds of moral dilemma.

Below the elementary school is a powerful chute I had never fished before. On my third cast with a yellow Marabou, I hooked a rainbow who immediately tore off downstream, right through the middle of a deep pool.

I couldn't coax him back in the current, nor could I follow him downstream through the pool -- it was well over my head. My only recourse was to take to shore and follow him along the bank. I had started...I had gone about five yards...when I ran smack into a big NO TRESPASSING sign and a rusty strand of barbed wire.

I hesitated, both because I was surprised, and because that black print was so intimidating. No Experience Allowed This Side of Me, the sign seemed to say--No Enjoyment, No Wonder, No Curiosity, No Joy. I thought about it for a second, then I thought about Woody Guthrie's "This Land is Your Land, This Land is My Land," and the last verse, the one they don't sing in the easy-listening versions or teach the kids in school.

As I was walking that dusty highway,
I saw a sign said Private Property,
But on the other side, the sign said nothing,
That side was made for you and me!
And stepping over that barbed wire, I went in pursuit of my trout.

* * * * *

There's a short story by V. S. Pritchett about a businessman who's good at falling down. Whenever he's at a loss for words, bored, embarrassed or surprised, down he goes. It's his only talent. He knows a dozen ways to do it; when the story ends, he's showing off his latest tumble to his aghast business associates at an important meeting.

It's a character I can relate to. I've had some classic falls of my own this month, half of them caused by impatience, half by my dislike for waders. I've been fishing in jeans and sneakers since summer, and the cold water has finally caught up with me. I clanked from pool to pool like a wind-up monster with rusty gears, an angling Frankenstein.

There's a good lie near the cemetery that can only be covered by casting from a rock in midstream. I was halfway up it when I slipped. As falls go, it was only fair-say an 8.5 in difficulty, a 7.5 in execution. Still, it was enough to drench me and I had to hurry back to the car for a dry set of clothes. My waders are the cheapest kind you can get, slippery, ill-fitting and porous. Wading wet, though, was out of the question, so I tugged them on. What I gained in warmth, I lost in traction, and later in the afternoon I took another spill, this one much more spectacular than the first.

I was back in the Aquarium, stalking the big trout I had missed earlier in the month. We'd had the usual heavy rain around the equinox, and the water was higher than it had been the previous time-high enough to increase the force on my legs and feet. About a foot to my left was a nice flat boulder that would allow me to get above the worst of the pressure. I shuffled over to it and gingerly stepped onto its middle.

False-casting about twenty yards of line out, I dropped a big Spuddler a foot above the rock where the trout had struck. As the fly landed, I shifted position slightly, just enough so that the tread under my weight-bearing foot slid from the security of gritty granite to the peril of slippery moss. It was a backwards somersault this time, a fall I had never pulled off before, not even in school. What was remarkable about it was its slow-motion qualityÜI had enough time and horizon left at the apogee to see a huge boil beneath the fly. Upside down, I yanked back with my rod hand, but there was no rod thereÜit was flying through the air behind me with the arc and thrust of a javelin.

"I must prepare myself for this," I thought, but before I could, I was splashing in the water, already past the icy shock of entry. I grabbed for my sunglasses, but the current had them on the bottom, scurrying over the rocks like a plastic crab. I started to chase after them, but the river was in my waders, and the weight tumbled me over so that I was floating face-up. My wallet, buoyed free of my pocket, bubbled dollar bills past my chest; my fly box, sprung from my vest, bobbed like the coffin of the Pequod.

There was no use fighting it. I gave myself up to my klutziness and let the current push me over to a sandbar-a lump now, a sack of wet nothingness to be stripped clean and flung disdainfully on the shore.

Somewhere in my passage from vertical to horizontal to vertical again I managed to bump heads with a rock, resulting in a concussion that laid me up for three days, giving me plenty of time to puzzle out the moral of all this. Never underestimate the capacity of a river to humiliate you, and always wear felt-bottomed soles.

* * * * *

And just for the record, the foliage peaked at pre cisely 3:38 p.m. on Thursday, September 29. I was there when it happened. I was fishing by the elementary school, and had stopped to stare in awe at the trees. There were dark storm clouds overhead, the wind would be stripping most of the leaves off by dusk, but for now the black sky framed perfectly the bittersweet reds and yellows, giving them a color so vibrant and urgent that their radiation was a tug on the heart.

As I watched, something remarkable happened. The sun found a hole in the cloud just large enough for one crepuscular ray to leap through. It slanted obliquely toward earth, catching a gold tree on the bank and casting its radiance onto the surface of the river, spinning it gold. My fly rode on its shimmer for the space of a yardÜfor that one fleeting moment I was fishing a golden fly for golden trout on a golden river. Then the cloud clamped shut around the sun, and the peak was passed.

I heard voices up on the bank. A boy and girl, each about eight, were kicking through the leaves piled against the trees. Every few yards they stooped to pick one up and put it in a plastic bag they jointly carried.

They waved, and came over to watch me. As it turned out, the leaves were for their oldest sister, in college out west. She was homesick for Vermont's autumn, she had written; they were collecting a bagful of the yellowest yellows and the reddest reds to send her to cheer her up.

"Here's one for you," the girl said, handing me a maple leaf. "Thanks, I'll keep it on my desk this winter. It will remind me of September." The boy saw his chance.

"September," he said, spreading his arms apart as if to embrace the smells, the colors and light, "is my best favorite year."


Excerpted with permission of the publisher from "Vermont River" by W.D. Wetherell, which describes a year in the life of a writer and a fisherman.